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+90.000 miles with the RCZ R (my story)

General Community Discussion - Anything RCZ

Plecodoras User avatar

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DKZ5745 wrote:
That really sucks :thumbdown: I had almost exactly the same happen to me with my nearside rear just after getting my Z. Fortunately the screw “sealed” itself in the tyre & it didn’t actually deflate, I only saw it because it was near the top of the tyre when I next cleaned the car. Even the pressure warnings didn’t go off.


Like you I had one in my tyre on my old car, but after already getting a new tyre I thought Bullocks it can stay there, since it wasn't going down. It stayed in the tyre until it went bald and I replaced it.
But I don't think I would trust one in my RCZ wheel, I wouldn't even have a puncture repaired, not on something as important as tyres which everytime you go out, you put your trust in them to keep you on track and not sliding into or off the hillside.

Pain in the .... elbow though.

Cheers M. :beer:
:lol: Laugh and the whole world laughs with you.... or is that at you? :eusa-think:


RCZ-R User avatar

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Yep. It is sort of pain in the ... as that tyre had another 10.000 miles of life in it.

But that's life. I hope I get the new one pretty soon as I miss greatly the grip of those Michelins.
RCZ R in red. driven daily. and driven hard.
Dyno results here: http://www.peugeotrczforum.co.uk/viewtopic.php?f=20&t=10118

DKZ5745 User avatar

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I discovered after my Brother died that he had insurance on his wheels and tyres. I hadn’t even realised that you could take out seperate insurance against punctures & curbing.

He did have run flat tyres on both his BMW & his Merc, so I suppose the cost of replacing them could justify extra insurance. It turns out he did claim for a new tyre that he damaged the sidewall on, and he had 3 rims repaired, so I suppose it worked out a good deal.

In hindsight, I wish I had seperate insurance on mine :eusa-think:
Mk 2 GT200 Moroccan Red

RCZ-R User avatar

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DKZ5745 wrote:
I discovered after my Brother died that he had insurance on his wheels and tyres. I hadn’t even realised that you could take out seperate insurance against punctures & curbing.

He did have run flat tyres on both his BMW & his Merc, so I suppose the cost of replacing them could justify extra insurance. It turns out he did claim for a new tyre that he damaged the sidewall on, and he had 3 rims repaired, so I suppose it worked out a good deal.

In hindsight, I wish I had seperate insurance on mine :eusa-think:


This kind of insurance is available for those Michelins over here in ze Germany. I got it. It also is one of the reasons why I go for Michelins :greetings-wavingblue:
RCZ R in red. driven daily. and driven hard.
Dyno results here: http://www.peugeotrczforum.co.uk/viewtopic.php?f=20&t=10118

RCZ-R User avatar

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NEW DISCS – BEDDING IN, PART 2:

Let’s continue the break in process for the Alcon brakes.
So, the first 100-300 miles of priming the discs+pads are over. Short recap: we wanted to achieve a perfectly even and smooth surface on the discs and pads before we start with material transfer into the discs. Let’s have a look at those discs after those miles (mixed driving on motorways and B roads)

disc_500.jpg
disc_500.jpg (92.99 KiB) Viewed 275 times

disc_closeup.jpg
disc_closeup.jpg (239.05 KiB) Viewed 275 times


We have shaved off most of the uneven surface of the disc and now there is a regular and very smooth surface. In the close up, you can see there have been only tiny dots left over in the material. They are not critical to heat dissipation as most of the surface is even.

Another indicator of a correctly executed priming of the disc’s surface is an even colouring of the discs when they are under load. For example, while you are doing those first 100 to 300 miles there will be moments where your brakes will heat up. That is fine. Still, we are not talking about emergency braking! Try to avoid it! The more important detail to be aware of and to monitor during the first miles is the brake pad to disc pressure rather than the heat. So the discs will eventually heat up and it doesn’t take much to change their colour from silver (cold) to dark blue/velvet (hot) when they are new. If the priming was done correctly the whole surface of the disc will be evenly coloured. There should be no streaks of colors going around the disc like the pad would work only in some areas. And even more critical, no spots around the disc at all. It has to be an even colouring. If you get dark blue spots while doing the priming things will get nasty with those discs later on.

With a surface prepared like this we are ready to start the brutal disc pad to disc surface material transfer. Something which will sound like abuse to some of you but hey, this is what a racing or semi-racing brake needs to perform correctly.

This is going to be part 3.
RCZ R in red. driven daily. and driven hard.
Dyno results here: http://www.peugeotrczforum.co.uk/viewtopic.php?f=20&t=10118

RCZ-R User avatar

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RCZ-R wrote:
UPDATE:

I've done a compression test on my R engine. The results are pretty good.
So basically what you see here is a compression test result from an R engine with almost 100.000 miles on it. Hard driven miles.

The results are what I have expected them to be. I was never worried about the engine's reliability. The figures it pushes are high but not on the edge of what is doable nowadays. If I would keep the car longer I would even go for a proper engine tuning up to 310 horses. It can take it.

There is the graph (attached)

cheers!


I'm going back here to the compression test and some open questions. So according to the company the numbers are fine and more important, even across all cylinders. The test was done on a "dry" engine. That's all they told me.

I personally never doubted the durability of the R engine. Maybe this is due to the fact that in my earlier automotive years I drove a lot of high revving Hondas, like the Integra Type-R, the S2000 or CRX VTEC. And those engines were bulletproof. Hi power output from relatively small displacement is a thing that doesn't worry me. :greetings-wavingblue:
RCZ R in red. driven daily. and driven hard.
Dyno results here: http://www.peugeotrczforum.co.uk/viewtopic.php?f=20&t=10118

RCZ-R User avatar

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And ... drum rolls ....

She is over the 100.000 miles mark! Actually somewhere at 102.000 miles.
Unfortunately I was not able to make an ODO picture at the very moment she crossed that mark. It happened during last weeks which were very busy for me. If my mind doesn't trick me it happened on my way to a meeting with my business partner. We were chatting a lot, also about cars, and then after a while I looked at the ODO and it was way past the 160935 km mark which equates exactly to 100.000 miles.

So forgive me, my RCZ brothers & sisters for not having a picture of it :eusa-shhh:
RCZ R in red. driven daily. and driven hard.
Dyno results here: http://www.peugeotrczforum.co.uk/viewtopic.php?f=20&t=10118

Plecodoras User avatar

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So, as I was talking with another RCZ owner recently at the mileage I do ( we ) .....

5000 smiles / year 11000 smiles now mmm that means I've another 18 years before I get to 100,000 smiles.

and that's a lot of meets !!!

Will we be classed as classic cars by then, considering that the Z will have been out for 26 years in 18 years time..?

Might even have another class of followers by then or just us OAPS :shock: :shock: :shock: :shock:
:lol: Laugh and the whole world laughs with you.... or is that at you? :eusa-think:

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