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Adding a sub to the JBL system

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Post Fri Jul 28, 2017 1:07 pm
Abzynthe User avatar

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I havent had chance really to listen to the sound system in mine. From what I remember, it was ok in my old one. I think without some serious upgrade, it wont be anything like the one in my 4 series. And even that is just the basic system with an alpine retrofit kit and upgraded underseat subs. Sounds awesome though.
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Post Fri Jul 28, 2017 1:44 pm
RCZIain Moderator
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I've got the NG4 and JBL upgrade. It sounds good to me.
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Sandra, 2011 200 GT. Shark grey, Ulter Quad exhaust. Vision pack.

Post Fri Jul 28, 2017 1:47 pm
Abzynthe User avatar

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RCZIain wrote:
I've got the NG4 and JBL upgrade. It sounds good to me.


Mine doesnt have JBL, Ive been looking to see if the JBL kit can be retrofitted to keep to the cars originality though.
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Post Fri Jul 28, 2017 9:00 pm
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Abzynthe wrote:
RCZIain wrote:
I've got the NG4 and JBL upgrade. It sounds good to me.


Mine doesnt have JBL, Ive been looking to see if the JBL kit can be retrofitted to keep to the cars originality though.
Have a look at my thread for what I did with the sound deadening, the difference is just insane without any changes.

viewtopic.php?t=7581

Without the jbl kit you should be able to use a normal amp, sub, speaker setup. It would probably be better to do that then try and fit the jbl.

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Post Sat Jul 29, 2017 6:29 am
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Last question...

Where is the earthing point location that use guys used for the amp?

Post Mon Aug 07, 2017 9:29 am
DRTDVL Senior Member
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I was thinking about this as we where working on installing the sub, and later testing it ( we forgot to reconnect the 3 plugs into the amp).

You should be able to high jack the feed into the amp from the head deck and figure out the the 4 speaker inputs into the amp as the amp looks have have a built in cross over which splits the signal and gives you a wire to each part of the speaker I. E. The rear 6x9's have a separate wire for the woofer and the tweeter...

I think you could then still keep the factory control head deck but add your own amp / speakers / cross over.

The stereo still worked while the amp connectors where unplugged so it doesn't look like there is a control unit built into the jbl amp.

I was also trying to figure out how to resolve the vibrating interior plastic panels and I remembered I have a bunch of foam tear away foam inserts from the armoured travel cases at work I could glue to the plastic panel to help isolate the vibration and maybe I'll put a few small strips of sound deadening on them also.

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Last edited by DRTDVL on Mon Aug 07, 2017 10:40 am, edited 1 time in total.

Post Mon Aug 07, 2017 9:34 am
tianorth User avatar

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Has this been posted before? (In this thread)

viewtopic.php?t=10771

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Tia2 is a 2013 RCZ Magnetic in Black with a 2litre diesel engine
Upgraded Peugeot sat-nav now has 7 digit postcode, safety alerts and updated maps
Other mods include door catch covers, rcz puddle lights, quad exhaust tips
Tia3 is a 2015 RCZ-R in Mercury Grey with a 1.6litre petrol engine, oh and 270 bhp
Other mods include door catch covers, rcz puddle lights
Both have dash cams front and back

Post Mon Aug 07, 2017 10:37 am
DRTDVL Senior Member
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Ohhh I hadn't seen that before, that must be the non-jbl speakers.

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Post Mon Aug 07, 2017 11:12 am
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I'll add my story and photos to here also for others - sorry I didn't get photos of everything as I was worried about finishing. I'll try and get more later.

You need to remove the wipers, there is a cap to pop off, and 2x 16mm nuts to remove then I had to wiggle the wiper arms until the arms popped off.

There is then 2 small trox screws for the plastic that covers the the area under the windscreen, there are at the ends of the rubber seal.

Pull the rubber seal off and then remove the plastic plate.

The wiper motor is held in by 3x 10mm bolts, the clip is under the motor and can be a bug of a pain to get off/the motor out - I found rotating the front up then pulling it forward then up helped.

This will expose a grommet which I cut the tip off to protect the wire and seal the firewall from water.
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For the area going from the wiper motor to the battery, I made a small vertical slice in the grommet behind the fuse box and fed the cable through that.
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I connected the head of the amp power wire to the flat connection point where the short battery terminal cable bolts to the fuse box on top of the battery box. (no photo but will get one)

Remove the trip panel that runs along the door bottom, it's a bit fun around the bonnet release, you might need to reach behind the panel from the footwell to help pop off the clip behind the bonnet release.

You will need to remove the glove box, there is 3x press lock plastic clips under the glove box to remove the carpet panel. There is 4x trox head screws in the glove box (3x on the front upper edge and 1x in the center of the roof of the glove box), the fuse box cover just needs a flathead screwdriver to unlock the plastic cover.

There are 2 plastic clips on the side of the glove box that clip onto the dash. yiu need to lift the clip to release these, You need to remove the plastic cover on the side of the glove box, this is held in by 3x metal clips, so a bit of force is needed to pull it off - mine had a picture of an air bag with a line through it... Don't worry there is no airbag there / attached to the plastic.

To feed the wire through the grommet I found I needed to push a large Phillips head screwdriver (larger than the cable) and wiggle it around as I move it through the firewall and sound deadening to all the cable to easily go through.

Once the cable was through it came down the center of the car side of the fuse box, I ran the cable between the black fuse box and the white mounting bracket for the fuse box and down behind the bonnet release leaver.
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I lifted the door seal off the bottom of the door and lifted the carpet over the plastic clips so I could run the power cable inside the factory loom runner, the cable just pops inside the clips.
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I removed the rear seat base, there is 2 clips that you need to pull the seat out, they are located in the front middle of each seating spot, just grab the edge of the seat where your crotch would be I'd you where sitting there and lift with a bit of force and the seat will unclipped and you will giggle and how minimal it is.

To get the cable under the rear 1/4 panel trim and over the seat ledge, I just rolled / pushed it under the lip and wiggled it into place, and then down along the seat belt buckle area.

I feed the cable under the folding rear seat and taped it into place.

I'll add more to this later as I'm getting sleepy... But wanted to start the write up. I'll get some more photos tomorrow.

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Post Sun Aug 20, 2017 1:51 pm
DRTDVL Senior Member
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So we have had it rubbing for a while now and the wife has been complaining that the sub it popping randomly while driving...


Anyone got any ideas why this might be happening?

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