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Heating issues

Leather, seats, dash, aircon, heaters & strange noises

Post Thu Mar 22, 2018 7:52 am
queenb123 User avatar

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Hi all,

After the recent snow - my heating stopped working.

Usually I have it up by 23 degrees (or level of comfort) - never really go higher than that.

Now at 23 it blows cold to lukewarm air - but if if turn it up higher to 27 - it blows a hot(ish) kind of air.

Been stuck like this for a while - is this a thermostat issue?

I have had the car checked by a mechanic and he says all pipes and etc are flowing ok - he even diagnosed it (he says) - but the problem still persists!
Last edited by queenb123 on Thu Mar 22, 2018 8:20 am, edited 1 time in total.


Post Thu Mar 22, 2018 8:14 am
Nemi User avatar

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Hello :wave:

Firstly, the value indicated on the display corresponds to a level of comfort and not to a temperature in degrees Celsius or Fahrenheit

Secondly, isn't this like your third topic about the heater? :eusa-think: In previous posts you said that your bf checked it and said it was broken thermostat. So was it really broken? Did you have it fixed?

Post Thu Mar 22, 2018 8:17 am
queenb123 User avatar

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Nope 2nd topic - had it checked like i was told it was ok - and no still not fixed. In my last post i said I "think" it was a broken thermostat - i relayed all of this to the mechanic.

Mechanic says everything is ok - but heating is still acting up!

Post Thu Mar 22, 2018 8:39 am
DKZ5745 User avatar

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It does sound like a thermostat issue, although, if you are getting “warmer” air when you increase the value, maybe it’s a sensor somewhere that is faulty.
If the thermostat is totally gone, I would have thought it wouldn’t matter what you did with the controls, the air temp would stay the same, nevertheless I would have thought the thermostat was a good place to start.
Mk 2 GT200 Moroccan Red

Post Thu Mar 22, 2018 8:42 am
queenb123 User avatar

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ok - thank you DKZ5745 - that sounds logically. Can i just ask - if the sensor indeed is faulty - would i get some sort of warning? The car usually warms me about everything - plus the mechanic did say he plugged it into one of those gadgets that diagnose car faults & said everything was ok!

Post Thu Mar 22, 2018 2:15 pm
tianorth User avatar

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What happens if you turn it to HI?

When the temperature gauge (on your instrument cluster) is near 90 degrees, you should get hot air coming out.

In an old car I had an internal/external temperature thermometer (from lidl for £2.99) and I put the external wire into one of the vents, and when it was on HI the temperature for that vent would report upto 72 degree C, and then after that it was out of range for that thermometer and it displays HI as well.
It was usually on for a long time trying to heat to the back of the car, which was a long way away.

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Tia2 is a 2013 RCZ Magnetic in Black with a 2litre diesel engine
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Tia3 is a 2015 RCZ-R in Mercury Grey with a 1.6litre petrol engine, oh and 270 bhp
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Post Thu Mar 22, 2018 6:17 pm
ONLY AEK User avatar

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You know that if the out side temprature is near 20 Then it wont blow Hot air?

Dont know where you live and how the weather is
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Post Thu Mar 22, 2018 10:25 pm
DKZ5745 User avatar

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queenb123 wrote:
ok - thank you DKZ5745 - that sounds logically. Can i just ask - if the sensor indeed is faulty - would i get some sort of warning? The car usually warms me about everything - plus the mechanic did say he plugged it into one of those gadgets that diagnose car faults & said everything was ok!


You wouldn’t necessarily get a fault warning, if the sensor is faulty, it might not be showing as faulty, it might just be mis-reading the temperature, leading to the air being blown out not being the temperature you “dialled in”.

I do think that the chances are it’s the thermostat though.
Mk 2 GT200 Moroccan Red

Post Fri Mar 23, 2018 8:09 am
robrac Regular
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Sounds familiar this one.

There could be a simple cause for this.. the way the thermostat housing is manufactured is ideal for air to get trapped in the housing and the "bubble" can play havoc with the thermostat reading.
There is a plastic (careful) bleed screw on the thermostat housing.
Forgive me if you know about these but for those that dont............................................................

For those that are unfamiliar with it..
Look at the battery..... go left.....come to the motor.... stop.... go back a bit..... see the silver hp fuel pump?
look sort off under it and a bit nearer the front of the motor, there is a black plastic moulding on the side of the motor.
Shine a bright light downwards vertically around the top of the unit and look for a black plastic screw.....
Find a flat blade screw driver that fits into the screw tightly and crack the screw undone anticlockwise,,,, as soon as it moves stop and go clockwise a bit again.
Now run the motor until the fan kicks in.
Turn the heating button up as high as you can.
Start to unscrew anticlockwise the screw ONE TURN AT A TIME.
Turn it ,,,, look and wait
Turn it ,,,,look and wait
Turn it ,,,, wait
The screw (as it starts to release) will allow trapped gases to escape BUT if you get in there and start turning and turning there is a risk the screw can leave the threads completely, burning your hands and firing the screw across the motor so
turn it wait,,,,, no water or bubbles...
turn it,,,,wait
When you see water coolant let it leak away a little then close the screw Clockwise again.

If that doesnt cure it then its a new thermostat housing complete.
Cost approx £80 plus v and its 90 minute fitting time because its easier to remove stuff out of the way.

It could still be a partially plugged matrix but unlikely. These thermo units fail regularly. Do this first then if no better, its a matrix, £60 and 1 hour labour,,, both easy to do yourself.

ROBRAC


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