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NEED HELP! - possible engine problems and codes?

Anything about the RCZ that doesn't belong in the forums below including Service & warranty questions

everson38 Regular
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Hey guys

Brand new to forum today so apologies if breaking any rules. But I have quite a big one and need help.

I have a 2010 RCZ 1.6 Petrol with 35k miles and last week an engine light came on saying "engine fault - repair needed" I had it scanned by a technician from AA and it brought up

1)P1385 - Super knock detection
2)P2339 - Super knock detection cylinder 4
3)P0012 - Inlet camshaft degassing
4)P0016 - Synchronising between camshaft and camshaft
5) P0172 - mixture adjustment / too rich

I am a noob with all this so if anyone can help it would be great.

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renegade79 User avatar

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engine de-coke required...
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RCZ gone but not forgotten

everson38 Regular
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renegade79 wrote:
engine de-coke required...
Thanks renegade. Can you explain about what a de-coke is ?

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RCZIain Moderator
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Engine apart and media blasted. Usually walnut shells.

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Spart User avatar

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If this is the problem,(not saying it is) it's not quite as drastic as it sounds. The engine doesn't have to come completely apart just the inlet manifold off to allow access to the inlet valves. The inlet valves tend to be the ones that can have a build-up of carbon and it's quite common to have this blasted away with a sort of sand blaster but with walnut shells as the medium. Have a Google of "walnut shell blasting mini cooper/BMW" to give you an idea.

RCZIain Moderator
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How does it run? Poor idle, loss of power?
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neilgsxr69 User avatar

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On the face of it you would think de-coke but Not having heard of many forum members having to have this done and with Relatively low mileage I would possibly point in the direction on the timing being out? Maybe worth finding a good reliable dealer to have a look whereabouts are you located?

And we have a forum member robrac who has worked extensively on these cars maybe he could shine a light?

Over to you robrac :D
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RCZIain Moderator
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I thought maybe timing with the synchronisation code.
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DKZ5745 User avatar

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Always a chance of a coil pack or two :eusa-think:
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robrac Regular
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Hi Guys.

This sounds like a shadow fault, one that is throwing up a set of faults that are symptoms of the initial fault not the actual fault. Off the top of my head I can think of one that could show this pattern I would eliminate this one first before anything else.

For me I would lift the valve cover and have a look if the top cam chain guide is still 100% there.. to start with.
The chain "distance" between the 2 cams is critical to 0.4mm, if the top guide is compromised it increases substantially the "distance and therefore the timed relationship" between the 2 camshafts.

My advice, start with that one....Its simple and free..... eliminate that before I start digging deeper.

Robrac

everson38 Regular
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RCZIain wrote:
How does it run? Poor idle, loss of power?
Well this actually isn't my car it belong 's to a female friend and. They said they didn't notice any change just that the light came on. But they aren't Mrs Mechanic so probably wouldn't notice the power loss.

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everson38 Regular
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Spart wrote:
If this is the problem,(not saying it is) it's not quite as drastic as it sounds. The engine doesn't have to come completely apart just the inlet manifold off to allow access to the inlet valves. The inlet valves tend to be the ones that can have a build-up of carbon and it's quite common to have this blasted away with a sort of sand blaster but with walnut shells as the medium. Have a Google of "walnut shell blasting mini cooper/BMW" to give you an idea.
Lol first I'm hearing of such a thing. Surely some type of solution would be safer than walnuts?? Lol

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everson38 Regular
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Spart wrote:
If this is the problem,(not saying it is) it's not quite as drastic as it sounds. The engine doesn't have to come completely apart just the inlet manifold off to allow access to the inlet valves. The inlet valves tend to be the ones that can have a build-up of carbon and it's quite common to have this blasted away with a sort of sand blaster but with walnut shells as the medium. Have a Google of "walnut shell blasting mini cooper/BMW" to give you an idea.
Also is there a reason why I'm adding mini cooper / bmw to it? Is it. Something that's made for these cars

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everson38 Regular
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neilgsxr69 wrote:
On the face of it you would think de-coke but Not having heard of many forum members having to have this done and with Relatively low mileage I would possibly point in the direction on the timing being out? Maybe worth finding a good reliable dealer to have a look whereabouts are you located?

And we have a forum member robrac who has worked extensively on these cars maybe he could shine a light?

Over to you robrac :D
Yeah think it will be going to a Peugeot dealership and see what they bring back. Yeah hopefully this robrac pro can shed some light lol

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everson38 Regular
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robrac wrote:
Hi Guys.

This sounds like a shadow fault, one that is throwing up a set of faults that are symptoms of the initial fault not the actual fault. Off the top of my head I can think of one that could show this pattern I would eliminate this one first before anything else.

For me I would lift the valve cover and have a look if the top cam chain guide is still 100% there.. to start with.
The chain "distance" between the 2 cams is critical to 0.4mm, if the top guide is compromised it increases substantially the "distance and therefore the timed relationship" between the 2 camshafts.

My advice, start with that one....Its simple and free..... eliminate that before I start digging deeper.

Robrac


Thanks for your input robrac it is greatly appreciated. Not amazing with cars but can you tell me with what the 'top cam guide ' looks like? If it turned out to be bad and the distance is increased, is the fix just a matter of replacing this part or something more intensive

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2retro User avatar

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everson38 wrote:
Is there a reason why I'm adding mini cooper / bmw to it?

It's the same engine in the BMW Mini Cooper as the RCZ.

2retro User avatar

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everson38 wrote:
Lol first I'm hearing of such a thing. Surely some type of solution would be safer than walnuts?? Lol

I does sound a bit daft but apparently it's a legit thing! lol

Spart User avatar

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everson38 wrote:
Spart wrote:
If this is the problem,(not saying it is) it's not quite as drastic as it sounds. The engine doesn't have to come completely apart just the inlet manifold off to allow access to the inlet valves. The inlet valves tend to be the ones that can have a build-up of carbon and it's quite common to have this blasted away with a sort of sand blaster but with walnut shells as the medium. Have a Google of "walnut shell blasting mini cooper/BMW" to give you an idea.
Lol first I'm hearing of such a thing. Surely some type of solution would be safer than walnuts?? Lol

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Lol maybe I should have pointed out that the shells are crushed first not whole! Also there are a lot more minis around than RCZ's so more chance you will find the same faults recorded.

neilgsxr69 User avatar

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if You need to ask as to where the top guides are your just better letting a dealer look at it (no offence meant)if the top guide has broken up it’s not just a matter of replacing this part the whole timing kit needs replacement your Peugeot dealer should charge around £500 to do this including all the parts.
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robrac Regular
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Hi again,

standing in front of the car with the top cover removed You will see the 2 cam shafts lay left to right parallel to each other.

On the left is the chain and you will see the top guide over the top of the chain that runs between the 2 cams.
(if its still there :thumbdown: )

Its function is to stop chain slap and ensure the chain stays taught and therefore the distance stays stable.
The chain guide is a an aluminium plate, held in place by 2x m6 bolts and that supports an nylon channel.

It should be the same front and rear, no cracks, no bits missing, no damage or broken off.

Have a look and come back to be directly ........ I will talk you through whats next, either way.

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